After 2 weeks Kathmandu it started itching again.. The mountains. The nature, The view and the calmness. That’s why, and also because it wasn’t posible to go to Mugu (simikot) alone, and because nobody had responed to my harder trek itinerary, I decided to go to Langtang. But how? With the bus? 500 Rupees and 6 hours bumping around? No way! Let’s go on a mountainbike! So it happened: I rented a mountainbike and the plan was to give it back after 6 days in Dhunche (6 hours with the bus). There I would put it on a bus back to Kathmandu, to start trekking myself. The first day I went from Kathmandu via Sunkhani to Bidur. The last bit downwards 1 gear stopped working. When I was stupidly cycling with one hand I even fell. A big bruise on my elbow and a big blue bruise on my leg was the result. Fortunately it’s nothing. In Bidur I found a nice hotel for just 12$. The next day I went at 7AM because it would become a long day. Also I didn’t want to cycle in the heat all day. This day would be 1600 meters up! So it would take a while. 5 kilometers before I arrived in Dhunche I got a flat tire! I would never make it before dark, it had already been 5PM... Fortunately, there was an empty schoolbus driving to Dhunche, and they were happy to help me. Bike in the bus, me in the bus, vamos!
The next day I was planning to fix my tire to get a new inner tube because I got 2 from the rental place. Unfortunately, It wasn’t for the right type of tire, and there was no bycicle repair shop in Dhunche (they mostly had motorbikes there, no cycles)... Then I decided to just put my bike on the bus and start walking from there...
The first hiking day was 1100 meters altitude gain. Along the way I met a Polish guy and a Israeli guy. With the polish guy I walked for about 3 hours, and with the Israeli guy will walk for 3 days. I hate traveling alone!
Started in Dimsa, 800m alitude gain in 1:50 hours. Wow, that’s fast!
After a long break in Laurabina I went on a very steep off-road trail to the Saraswati kund (4000m) (close to gosaikund) when I reached it, there was nobody around so I took out all of my clothes and swam in the shallow lake. It was cold but awesome.
We went from Laurabina to the Gosaikund and wanted to stay there for the day but after bargaining and having a very heated discussion, we didn’t get a good deal… So we went swimming in the Lake, and went further to the pass And Back. Some Lakes had about 10cm of Ice! I even walked on it. Then we went Back to Laurabina again.
Today I decided to do something on the edge of being to dangerous. I had a good look on the map yesterday morning, and I was pretty certain that this plan was doable and not too Crazy. The plan was to go from laurabina to Gosaikunde And then leave the trail and Head north. The High Mountains north of Gosaikunde were not too steep and it would maximally be 50% steep if you took the right route, according to the map.
So I started at 9am and went up but I went north a little bit before reaching Gosaikunde because I looked at the Mountains and the map and it would likely be easier and shorter. I reached a Hill of about 4600m Just above Gosaikunde at about noon. It was beautiful. After that I kept staying High (above 4200m) for a couple More hours. There were beautiful flat valleys , some with rivers. And mostly Grass to Walk on. But it became harder and harder.
After 1pm I had to Walk over a lot of Big Stones. Then, at about 2pm I started to go Down. I had to go Down at least 2000m and I had only about 4 hours before darkness so I already was a little worried. I had to Walk through High Grass, then bushes of 0,5m High and then Came the Forest, which was sometimes really easy and sometimes hard because the steepness or because it was densely grown with a lot of Bamboo like plants and Small Trees. Then, at about 3:15pm, when I was almost sure I would never make it today, I found an old trail that went Down, so walking down was a lot easier. I was so happy. However, the trail faded away after 30 minutes... Shit! However a Long time it went pretty fast in the Forest, it was easy walking. At 4pm I again found another trail and some Huts to keep animals in. But unfortunately I Made a big mistake. I trusted my gps too much and after the trail faded away I didn’t care and went on Straight to Bamboo. However it became steeper and steeper and the Sun started to set. In the End at 5’30 I was Just sliding Down a Dry river and sometimes it was 80% steep or something which was Crazy! But the Trees and bamboo prevented me from falling. I was Just sliding Down and grabbed the Bamboo All the time to slow down. But then it became really dark and I had a light but I could sometimes not see how steep it was. I decided to stay here for the night, about 300meters from my destination Bamboo, but also about 2 or 3 hundred meters Down. It is too dangerous to do this at night. If I fall I could break something or even die. I am now looking forward to a night outside and will continue at 6am again. I have a sleeping bag, which May save me from a very cold night. I think it will be around 0 to -5 degrees tonight (its 22 november and about 2200m altitude in nepal) I am gonna Sleep on a steep place (70% steep) but there is a little flat piece, Just enough for half a sleeping bag and the Bamboo will hold me here so I will not fall down. Good night!
I slept very well under these circumstances. I was not cold at all. At 7 o’clock I left. Further Down was too steep so I had to go back up to find another way. I spent the whole day looking for a less steep way Down but I could not find a save way. At 4pm I had given up Hope and accepted that I would have to sleep in the steep Forest again and go All the way Back up tomorrow (I also had No food left). So I started walking Back up. But then…. I saw it! It was the perfect gorge, going Down as steep as neccesary but still doable. I started going Down again and before 5pm I was on the road! I was so happy I screamed and had to Kiss the trail. Within an hour I walked to Rimche and had 4 plates of Dal Baht there. What an adventure! I would not recommend this however I don’t regret it either somehow.
Wooh! In 6 hours + 1 hour break, I walked from Rimche to Kiajin Gompa. 20,5km with 1600+ hight meters!
Today I walked the whole Lang Tang Valley till the end. 30km+
Today I did Tsergo Ri in +-2 hours. That’s quite fast because that’s 570hm per hour. That’s a record! Nice for sure on this altitude. Everybody that I met told me ‘woah, you’re so strong’or ‘you are fast man’. So funny how much progress I made in 2 months of walking. After Tsergo Ri I tried to do Yala peak, but it seemed to dangerous to do this alone. I went until a hight of 5150 meters. After that I tried to go down in a creative way, but it didn’t work out. I ran back. I walked a lot today. In the evening I made myself ready for tomorrow. The last day! or is it????
Today my plan was to go to Tarke Ghyang. About 1600+ hm and 30+ km. That’s why I woke up at 4AM! Early, but I still had 8 hours of Sleep, so No problems. After a Tibetan bread with jam, 3 cups of tea and a cup of coffee, All prepared the evening before, I left at 4:50 to climb the pass Ganja La.
My view from near the Ganja La
Beautiful shot I have to say. Well done, sir.
After 13:20 I finally reached it. It took so Long because it was really hard to find the trail and I had to Walk Back serveral Times. Thanks MapsMe! The last bit was very steep, there even was a ladder. But then I was finally there. I should at least smoke one bit of Ganja at the Ganja La, right? So I did! Ha!
Near the Ganja La it became super steep and tricky
Very unconfortable to walk here, but very rewarding after I made it to the top.
Finally... The other side!
After the pass, the First few hundred meters Down where very steep and hard because all Stones were loose and falling All the time. After that it became easier, and I walked Down fast. At about 4500hm there was a tentcamp with 7 Frenchmen. They told me it was possible to sleep and get water at Keldang. So I did that because I was tired. It is a stone house with open door where I went to sleep in, at 4300hm! All my clothes on and in my borrowed sleeping bag. No mat. I went inside at 4pm and waited until it got dark. Hope its not too cold!!! Tomorrow I will Walk to the bus and hopefully be in KTM the same day.
This was a cold night allright. But it was managable. I slept some because I had some dreams. At 2am the water next too my bed was not even frozen! So inside the hut it was >0°C. Still cold though. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. At 2:30 I gave up sleeping and packed up everyting. I started 2,45 so I walked in the dark for 3,5 hours. Not really comfortable nor comforting views or anything. The stars and the mountain silhouets were Nice though. Also in the morning I had the most amazing sunrise ever.
I arrived quarter to 10 despite having almost no breaks and walked really fast. So it was still 7hours! It’s always longer than you think. I got invited by a school owner to have some food when i arrived. Nice because I was incredibly hungry. He said to me that the last bus would go at 9AM but when I finished my food we heard a horn! Wow, the bus was late today! At 10:30 I sat in the bus and it instantly left. Unfortunately the engine of the bus was really bad and, of course, after 10 minutes bumping around the engine stopped. DAMN. After 15 minutes it worked again but at 11am it stopped again. The chauffeur also drove like an idiot so I was kind of glad to start walking to the next village: 3 hours walking. I was planning to go with the next bus but it never came so I hitchhiked to a next town 2 hours down the road with the only car that came along! Nice people here. I had a nice conversation about Nepal Politics, Dutch companies in Nepal, the Netherlands and other interesting topics. He spoke english really well! After that I went to a hotel, and acted like I didn’t have more money so I got a room and food for 1000 Rupees. That’s more than enough! After a nice shower I went to bed early.
At 6AM I took the first bus to KTM for 150 Rupee for a 4 hour busride. After I arrived, I fixed my camera, had nice lunch and chilled in Sara’s backpackers hostel. Carl is also coming tomorrow, and the 3 germans I met at Gosaikunde were also here! Awesome, party tonight! At 5PM me and Suraj (the hostel owner) killed a chicken. I’ll never forget this experience. The chicken was still moving 2 minutes after his head got cut off. After dinner we drank beer and partied. After 2 weeks of walking I was super drunk after 2 beers. It was an awesome end of an awesome country! Definetly coming back soon to Nepal
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